Mickey's RV8 Site

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Saturday 22-Jul

Upgrading brake o-rings (0)

Friday 14-Jul

Aircraft silencers and mufflers (0)

Wednesday 12-Jul

Powerlet power outlets (0)

Saturday 08-Jul

Intake air temperature sensor (0)

Thursday 20-Apr

Instrument Panel (0)

Tuesday 18-Apr

Alternator Belt Tension (0)

Sunday 16-Apr

Fuel pressure manifold (0)

Thursday 13-Apr

2.25" altimeter (0)

Friday 31-Mar

Fuel system pressure test (0)
Cooling system plumbing shots (0)

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Welcome to Mickey's RV8 Site
Mon, Sep 06 2010 @ 14:59 in Switzerland

Current Status

Sat, Jun 21 2008 @ 15:05 in Switzerland
Contributed by: Mick
Views: 1,518

Just a quick couple of pictures to show the current status.

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Trio Avionics EZ-1 EZ-2 EZ-3 altitude hold servo installation

Sun, Oct 22 2006 @ 21:06 in Switzerland
Contributed by: Mick
Views: 2,285

Just getting started with the installation of the Trio Avionics EZ-1/EZ-2/EZ-3 altitude hold servo. http://www.trioavionics.com/ The reason I listed all three current models because I don't yet know which version I plan to use. I have only purchased the servo so far, which is basically the same for all of the models. Actually, there is an optional automatic trim adjustment system that you can get for the servo, and I have this option - just in case.

Installing the servo is normally extremely easy, but since I installed my batteries just behind the baggage compartment, the perfect location for the trim servo is gone. So, I need to find another place for it. There really is only one place that can work, just behind the elevator belcrank. There is plenty of room there, but there is no supporting structure to mount the servo. I'll need to make something.

Here is my first attempt at some structure for the servo. The problem with this configuration is that the bulkhead where I was planning to attach this is too flexible. Everything back there is very flexible, and you really don't want the servo to move at all, for two reasons. 1) the servo will not be as precise, since it has to try to figure out how much the structure is moving in addition to the elevator. Not good. 2) any kind of flexing of the bulkhead will eventually cause stress fractures. Also not good.

The only thing I could figure out to do is to extend the angle that is used to create the belcrank mount. Here's what I've got so far. This is fabricated from a piece of 0.125x1x1.25 aluminium angle.

Of course, I had to drill out the original angle. That was not too difficult physically, but mentally it felt strange removing something that had been installed as part of the quickbuild. I believe this will be a good solution, and it is actually lighter than my original idea, with the lightening holes.

I'll try to get this installed next weekend and see what we've got. It might be a bit long, so I may want to shorten it.

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Andair Fuel valve installation

Sun, Aug 13 2006 @ 18:35 in Switzerland
Contributed by: Mick
Views: 3,060

Here are some pictures of the andair fuel valve installation.

Nothing fancy. It is actually rather tricky to get all the plumbing in there, since bending the aluminium tubing precisely is not that easy.

Here's more information about the fuel system: http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20060204155308787

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Upgrading brake o-rings

Sat, Jul 22 2006 @ 18:50 in Switzerland
Contributed by: Mick
Views: 3,604

There have been many brake fires on RVs and other aircraft. These are usually caused by the type of brake fluid used in many aircraft. The most common fluid is MIL 5056, which has a flash point of around 250�F. This is a very low flash point, and if any fluid leaks on the brakes during braking action, it will catch on fire.

There are other hydraulic brake fluids available with a higher flash point, but they will all burn at some temperature. This is a problem that has been solved in the automotive world, and I wanted to apply this solution to my RV. That solution is to use automotive brake fluid, like DOT-4. There are two problems with using this fluid. The first is that it requires different seals in all the brake components. The other is that the fluid, being based on glycol, is hydroscopic. That means that it will absorb water. This is a good thing, but it means that once the fluid has been saturated with water, it needs to be replaced. I plan to replace the fluid every annual, or perhaps every two years to eliminate this problem.

Changing the o-rings in the brake components was made much easier by RV-8A builder Charlie Kuss, who went out and found the right sizes of o-rings, and created a little kit that he made available. Here's his announcement from the Yahoo RV8 group:

Listers,
Back in January, I started a thread on the main RV
List regarding alternate brake fluids. I have
researched this and have decided to use automotive DOT
4 style fluid. My main objection to the 5056 mineral
oil fluid used in certified small aircraft is that it
BURNS! And it's flash point is a mere 250 degrees
Fahrenheit. A number of RVs have burned because of
brake fluid being sprayed on a hot brake rotor (failed
caliper O-ring or failed line). This recently happened
to RV-6A owner Ed Anderson. Ed only lost his tire,
brakes and wheel pant, because his son had the
presence of mind to snuff the fire, using some
antifreeze he had in his car. At least 3 other RVs
have burned to the ground over the years because of
this.
Automotive brake fluids do not burn and have much
better performance (hot and cold) characteristics when
compared to MIL 5056. However, automotive brake fluids
are not compatible with the Buna N O-rings in our
brake parts. Auto brake fluids require the use of EPDM
(ethylene propylene) O-rings. I recently purchased the
needed O-rings to convert my master cylinders, Matco
parking brake vale and Cleveland brake calipers. To
obtain the highest quality O-rings, I had to purchase
in quantities of 100. Therefore, I have a limited
number of brake "kits" to offer for sale for $12
(shipping included). This will include enough parts to
convert both master cylinders, the parking brake valve
and both calipers. I will also include enough spares
to rebuild all items twice.
If you would prefer to buy these items yourself, I'd
be happy to email you the part numbers off list. I'll
be at Sun N' Fun, in case some of you would prefer to
pick them up there.
Charlie Kuss

Here are a few pictures I took while changing the o-rings.

This is the brake caliper.

To remove it, I just blew a bit of compressed air into the blue fitting. The puck popped out.

The new o-ring is on there, and ready to be installed. There have been cases of these pucks being installed backwards, with the ring closer to the brake pad. This can cause a leak. Some pucks are stamped with "this side out", so it makes it pretty easy to get it right.

Here is the matco parking brake valve.

I've already done the upgrade, but I forgot to take a picture of the inside. Not much interesting, unless you are a parking brake valve engineer, just three o-rings to be replaced.

Here is the left master cylinder with the brake insides removed.

Here are the insides.

Another shot after replacement. You can see the three o-rings. One is difficult to see, its inside the puck on the left, and seals the master cylinder shaft.

Here is the master cylinder reassembled, and ready to go back on the aircraft.

I need to buy some DOT-4 brake fluid, and install it. Then the brakes will be ready for action. Thanks again, Charlie!

Update: 2008-08-02 - I need to replace the hoses that connect the master cylinders to the brake system (brake valve). Charlie suggested these:

Pegasus has Teflon lined SS hoses with AN fittings. For an 8 or 8A, you want 21" long with straight fittings on both ends. ($15.99 each) See: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=4

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RV4 relief tube setup

Mon, Jul 17 2006 @ 16:17 in Switzerland
Contributed by: Mick
Views: 1,432

Here are some pictures of a relief tube setup on a local RV4.

This aircraft was flown from Texas to Switzerland, and this configuration got a lot of use for both a male and female pilot. Works well, and according to the builder, it does not get any liquid on the bottom of the aircraft.

This is the tube where the funnel or other system hooks up.

Here is the venturi that creates a slight vacuum that pulls the liquid out.

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Cowling exit ramp

Mon, Jun 26 2006 @ 15:16 in Switzerland
Contributed by: Mick
Views: 3,914

Here are a couple of pictures of the cowling exit ramp area, and the plans that show the F-867 Cooling Air Ramp.

The first two pictures show where I unfortunately had to remove the nice, rounded part of the F-867 in order to accomodate the Eggenfellner Subaru engine mount. You can also see my exhaust pipes and supertrapp mufflers. The blue silicone hose goes to the cabin heater, and will be secured at a later time.

As always, you can click on the images for a closer look.

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Stainless Steel firewall penetration

Wed, Feb 22 2006 @ 10:23 in Switzerland
Contributed by: Mick
Views: 4,031

Here are a couple of pictures of my firewall penetration system for the giant Subaru wire bundle. The diameter of the tube is 2", which is huge, but required for the big connectors on the engine. It is possible to run the harness from the inside of the cockpit out, and then the largest connectors are a bit smaller, but I really didn't want to remove the harness from the engine.

I got this custom welded at a local welding shop. The material came from the local junkyard. Total cost for the metal and welding: about USD 30. Actually, the welding was free - the owner of the shop needed a rough translation of a document from English to French. In return, he didn't charge me. It took 5 minutes to read it to him. Five minutes for 30 bucks - yes!

The goal is to do something like these guys have done here: http://www.epm-avcorp.com/fwalinst.html

This is also known as the grab bar or towel bar method. I actually bought some grab bars from McMaster-Carr, but the ID was just a bit too small for my application. Mine is actually a bit lighter than the store-bought towel bars. Also, getting the exact angle on the bar with my custom setup is rather nice. I also bought some 2" firesleeve from McMaster-Carr.

It feels a bit silly going with stainless steel, since I have aluminum bulkhead fittings for my fuel lines, heater core coolant, and my supercharger boost controller cable, but what the heck. At least one of my firewall penetrations is done right!

Here is the hole. Cutting stainless steel is not fun. I used a combination of small drills, aviation snips, and a dremel tool to get the hole finished.

The view from the cockpit side of the firewall. Note that I've put the hole in the corner of two angles, so I can use them to provide support for the stainless steel tube.

Here is the stainless steel tube mounted to the firewall. I used some fireproof caulk that I got from a home store, but after installing it I found out that it dries hard and crunchy. Not good. You need to use a sealant that remains pliable.

Here you can see I've run the wire bundle through the tube, and wrapped some firesleeve around it. I've also got the firesleeve around the stainless steel tube.

The firesleeve is pulled up, ready to be tightened.

Here's what it looks like when all is done. The clamps are tight, and should keep the nasty stuff outside the cockpit.

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Glareshield Edging

Sat, Feb 04 2006 @ 14:33 in Switzerland
Contributed by: Mick
Views: 1,294

Got this from Kevin Horton, originally posted by RV-6 builder Mark Nielsen:

==============================
For my glareshield, I mounted a piece of 3/8" soft aluminum tubing (same as
fuel line) along the aft edge of the glareshield. I cut a lengthwise slot
in the tubing, pushed it on the aft edge of the glareshield, and held it in
place with fillets of epoxy along the top and bottom. I was pleased with
the results. It gives the glareshield a nice "beaded" edge that looks right
in place next to the tubular frame that supports it (tip-up canopy). The
tube also stiffens the glareshield considerably and eliminates the "sharp"
aft edge.

To cut the slot in the tubing, I used a 3" cutting disk mounted in a drill
press. I drilled a 3/8" hole near the edge of a 2x4 and cut a slot between
the center of the hole and the edge. This was clamped vertically on the
drill press
so the cutting disc protrudes through the slot into the center of the hole.
The tube was pushed through the hole to cut the slot. (I drew a guide line
along the length of the tube so I could cut the slot straight.)

I used Power Poxy (Walmart) for the fillets. It has the consistency of very
soft modeling clay, is easy to use, sets up in about 30 minutes, and sands
easily. The application tool was my finger moistened with rubbing alcohol.

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Difficult rivets on F821PP skin

Fri, Jan 20 2006 @ 16:24 in Switzerland
Contributed by: Mick
Views: 1,415

I've got to find a solution to getting rivets in these two places. The problem is that the engine mount is almost touching the hole. I can't even get a pop rivet in there. I'm thinking about removing the engine to squeeze this, and then re-installing the engine. I could probably just slide the engine off about an inch or so, and get a bucking bar behind it.

Another suggestion I've had was to use the engine mount as the bucking bar. That might have worked, but the engine mount there is not straight. Also, not enough room to get an unsqueeded rivet into the hole!

The reason these are important is because they are right at the corner of the F821PP top skin.

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Flap fairings

Wed, Jan 04 2006 @ 17:41 in Switzerland
Contributed by: Mick
Views: 1,838

These are just some pictures of my flap fairings. There have been some questions about them, and I realized I didn't have any photos of them at all.

I didn't have too much trouble putting them on. At first, it didn't look like they would fit right, but with a little bit of twisting and squeezing, they went on ok. I had to trim one just a little bit.

I primed and painted the area under the flap fairing, which is why it is light grey. I had this done at the same time as I had the interior painted. Whoever I get to do the exterior paint will probably love that!

Here's the left flap fairing from the side.

Same from the bottom.

Right flap fairing from the bottom.

Another shot of the left flap fairing.

Another shot of the right flap fairing.

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